If you've got a height versus position, you've really got a picture or a snapshot of what the wave looks likeĪt all horizontal positions at one particular moment in time. That's what the wave looks like "at that moment in time." And if I were to show what the wave does, it travels toward the shore like this and you'd see it move, so that's what this graph really is. Just fill this in with water, and I'd be like, "Oh yeah, Versus horizontal position, it's really just a picture. You get this graph like this, which is really just a snapshot. Water level position zero where the water would normallyīe if there were no waves. Water level can be higher than that position or lower What does that mean? It means that if it wasĪ nice day out, right, there was no waves whatsoever, there'd just be a flat ocean or lake or wherever you're standing. So let's say this is your wave, you go walk out on the pier, and you go stand at this point and the point right in front of you, you see that the water height is high and then one meter to the right of you, the water level is zero, and then two meters to the right of you, the water height, the water Mathematically simplest wave you could describe, so we're gonna start with this simple one as a starting point. Now, realistic water waves on an ocean don't really look like this, but this is the Wave heading towards the shore, so the wave might move like this. Go walk out on the pier and you go look at a water Height of the water wave as a function of the position. Wave can have an equation? And here's what it means. You the equation of a wave and explain to you how to use it, but before I do that, I shouldĮxplain what do we even mean to have a wave equation? What does it mean that a
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